INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE OF THE SULTAN EL GHOREE


The entrance to this fine mosque is shown in the view of the bazaar of the silk-merchants, or, as it is sometimes called after the founder, the mosque of El Ghoreëh. The interior varies as much in mosques as in Christian churches. In the three which have been given in this Work, those of the Sultan Hassan, the Metwalys, and El Ghoree, this diversity is obvious; spacious and open courts and fountains in the first, the fine ranges of columns in the basilican character of the second, and in this of El Ghoree, the grand opening to the Mehráb, with its singular arabesque arch, formed by two large segments of circles which join in a pointed arch at the top, leaving an opening above the abutments nearly equal two-thirds of a circle. On looking in from the open court, the lamps, the arabesques, and enrichments of colour, characterise the Oriental place of worship.

The Mosques have already been described. Under certain regulations, access may be had to them by Franks, when accompanied by a cawass, or a janissary, who is appointed to attend those who have obtained leave to enter precincts which are generally forbidden to infidels. The Turkish costume on these occasions should always be adopted, and the utmost caution is required not heedlessly to give offence. Mr. Roberts narrates in his private journal a visit which he made to the Mosque of the Flowers, where he inadvertently exposed himself to a great danger. He says:- "Thanks to the kindness of general Patrick Campbell (then Colonel Campbell), who was Consul-general at Cairo, and the interest he took in furthering my views, I obtained access to all the principal mosques without exception. Franks, in general, are limited to that of the Sultan Hassan and a few others.

"In my rounds I was among others permitted to enter one of the most sacred, that which is called the Mosque of the Flowers. I wore the dress of the nazib, or military officer: my two janissaries were left as guards at the entrance. Accompanied by a young officer of the Pasha, one of several who had been educated in England, but whose name I avoid mentioning, in strolling over this vast building, I came upon an apartment were I found several people employed upon superbly embroidered covering, the arabesque flowers which prevailed in the work being of gold upon a black silk tissue, exceedingly beautiful in design. I knelt with others, not to kiss it, as I afterwards found they did, but to examine more minutely the material of which it was composed. I very soon found that I had been guilty of some dreadful crime, though at the moment I was unconscious of it; but on lifting up my eyes I saw my attendant first put his finger on his lip and then across his throat: there was plain and significant English in this, and his gesture showed me that if I did not follow him the result might be fatal. I had been long enough in Egypt not to know that were so much bigotry prevails there was danger. I had presence of mind enough to again prostrate myself before it, as I saw others around me do, and slowly rising I gradually made my way to the door; not that by which my friend retired, though he beckoned to me. Once out I ran almost breathless through several crooked streets before I again met the officer. I soon learned the monstrous sacrilege I had been guilty of, and the danger into which my curiosity  thoughtlessly had led me. I found that this was the mosque in which the holy covering is prepared, and which is annually sent, accompanied by thirty or forty thousand pilgrims, to be placed over the tomb of the Prophet at Mecca. Had it been known that that sacred drapery had been polluted by the touch of an unbeliever- a dog of a Christian- and I had been caught, it is horrid to reflect upon what might have been my punishment for this unconscious sacrilege."


Roberts's Journal